Thursday, October 31, 2013

How Civilized


We went to see the new Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations in Marseilles with our friend Elizabeth.   Marseilles is this year’s European Capital of Culture and the museum was built as its centerpiece.
 
Wow, is it cool!  The museum is a giant glass cube with a ramp that winds around it, climbing from floor to floor.  Outside the ramp is an exoskeleton made of black concrete and vaguely like a spider web.  It is hard to describe so you’ll have to see the pictures (some are best if you click on them to enlarge). 

The museum sits at the edge of the Mediterranean, near the old port and connected to the fort by a narrow walkway.  The views are spectacular.  Marseilles is hard to drive in but we are glad we made the effort.

The only problem is that they seem to run out of money before they got to things like signs and logistics.  Despite this being one of the most important new buildings in decades, there are no signs in town telling you where it is.  Zero.  And drunken kindergartners could have designed a more logical entry hall – dark and gloomy, no signs to direct you, random lines snaking through the room, confusion everywhere.

And the museum exhibits themselves can charitably be described as, um, incoherent.  A pasta machine next to a thatched-roof hut somehow represents Agriculture?  But it was hard to tell because some of the explanatory signs were only in French, some only in English, some only in Spanish.  When there were any at all, that is.

But heck, maybe the museum exhibits really do represent European civilization.  They were thought through at least as well as the Euro!

KVS

The museum and fort


On the rooftop terrace

New and old together

The high walkway to the fort (a sign advises helpfully "Don't Jump")

The old port 

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